Thursday, 17 October 2013

Lady Pattern Making



Method on Drafting Lady Main Pattern based on example size 10.


Measurement

Height about 157cm to 163cm
Bust 83cm
Waist 64cm
Hip 88cm
Back Waist Length 39.5cm

Used  Fitting Ease Allowance

Bust 6.5cm
Waist 2.5cm
Full Hip 8cm

Therefore add the Measurement and Ease Allowance then divide by 4 [Quarter Pattern].

Chest 83cm + 6.5cm = 89.5cm /4 = 22.4 cm

Waist 64cm +2.5cm =66.5/4 = 16.6cm

Hip 88cm + 8cm = 96cm/ 4= 24cm

Notes:
Long sleeve add 3cm+.
Long gown add 5cm or more for the High Heel.
Long pant add 5cm or more for the High Heel.



               

                   Lady Main Pattern





Lady Pattern Sizes

Create different Lady Pattern sizes from the Lady Main Pattern Method with fitting ease allowances.

For Lady Pattern size uses Fitting Ease Allowance for extra room.

Fitting Ease                Bust: 6.5          Waist: 2.5     Hip: 8
Allowance-cm:


Based on Measurement Guide as Example

Size 8 measurement in cm               Bust: 80          Waist: 61        Hip: 85          
Height: 157 to 163cm         
Back Waist Length: 39


Size 10 measurement in cm                        Bust: 83          Waist: 64        Hip: 88          
Height: 157 to 163cm         
Back Waist Length: 39.5


For increases the Lady Pattern Sizes just add the different same as decreases Pattern Sizes less the different.

Example on increases the Pattern Sizes:

Size 8 measurements in cm             Bust: 80
Size 10 measurements in cm                       Bust: 83

Bust 83 less 80 so the different is  3cm divide by 4        = 0.75cm
Then add the different [0.75cm] to Size 10 Bust measurement


Size 8 measurements in cm             Waist: 61
Size 10 measurements in cm                       Waist: 64

Waist: 64 less            61 so the different is           3cm divide by 4       = 0.75cm
Then add the different [0.75cm] to Size 10 Waist measurement

Size 8 measurements in cm             Hip: 85          
Size 10 measurements in cm                       Hip: 88

Hip 88 less 85 so the different is 3cm divide by 4           = 0.75cm
Then add the different [0.75cm] to Size 10 Hip measurement

Size 8 measurements in cm             Back Waist Length: 39
Size 10 measurements in cm                       Back Waist Length: 39.5

Back Waist Length: 39.5 less 39 so the different is 0.5cm


Increase [0.5cm] for Size 10 Center Neck and Shoulder measurement


          

              Lady Pattern Sizes


Lady Main Pant Pattern


Method on drafting lady main pant pattern.


Waist (A-B) 

Point A          Add 3.5 cm for the back dart then increase 1cm on the center back pant.

Full Hip (T-U) 

Front Waist –to Full Hip (B-U) 

Point B          Add 2 cm for the front dart pant.

Point (U)        extend 4 cm for curve and add 3cm 
                          Take out 1 cm for the front thigh curve

Back Waist - to Full High [A-T]

Point (T)         extend 4 cm for the curve and add 6cm 
            Lower 2 cm 
            Take out 1 cm for the back thigh curve

Knee Line Add 1 cm [2cm] to both side of  back pant.


           

              Lady Main Pant Pattern